Orzo in Siena

Bar 4 Cantoni, Siena, SI

Emerging from the labyrinthine halls of la Questura, my Permesso di soggiorno finally in hand, I felt a sense of accomplishment wash over me. This document, hard-won through months of endless paperwork and phone calls, granted me the right to reside in Italy as I await my citizenship. The weight of bureaucracy momentarily lifted, I wandered into the heart of Siena, seeking a refuge where I could savor the victory of the day.

Nestled in the charming corner of Via Città and Via San Pietro, amidst a tapestry of medieval architecture, Bar 4 Cantoni beckoned like a sign of Italian hospitality. The warm glow from its windows contrasted with the ancient stone walls surrounding it, inviting me to step inside and leave the world outside for a while. I know that the ambiance of a coffee bar always lifts my spirts.

Feeling under the weather, I decided to forgo my usual mid-morning espresso for something lighter. I ordered a spremuta and an orzo macchiato. The spremuta, bursting with the vibrant flavor of freshly squeezed oranges, revitalized my senses with every sip. Its tangy sweetness was a refreshing antidote to the day's bureaucratic ordeals. The orzo macchiato, a drink steeped in nostalgia, warmed me from within.

Orzo, or barley coffee, is a caffeine-free alternative made from roasted barley grains. It has a rich, nutty flavor that, while milder than espresso, offers a comforting warmth. As I sipped the orzo, memories of my mother choosing orzo over coffee flooded back, adding a layer of personal history to the experience. The macchiato part is a touch of frothed milk on top, just like an espresso macchiato.

Bar 4 Cantoni, much like Siena itself, is a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity. Its cavernous yet upscale interior, adorned with an array of fine pastries and attended by impeccable service, mirrored the timeless charm of the city. The mingling of locals and tourists created a symphony of melodious chatter, punctuated by the clinking of cups, weaving a rich tapestry of sounds that echoed the vibrant energy of the city.

Siena, a city steeped in history, is renowned for its stunning medieval architecture and the famous Palio, a horse race that has been held twice a year since the 17th century. This fierce and colorful competition between the city's contrade, or districts, takes place in the Piazza del Campo, transforming the heart of Siena into a pulsating arena of tradition and rivalry. The Palio is not just a race; it is a deeply ingrained part of Sienese identity, reflecting centuries of history and communal pride. (See more on the Palio in a future newsletter)

As I sat in Bar 4 Cantoni, I couldn't help but feel connected to the rich tapestry of Siena's history. While it lacked the quaint intimacy of a village café, its vibrant energy perfectly complemented the timeless allure of the city. The bar offered not just a drink but a window into the rich cultural heritage of Italy. In Siena, several places bear the name of Saint Catherine of Siena (Santa Caterina), subtly underscoring her importance to the city. Catherine, who lived here in the mid-1300s, was a mystic, theologian, and one of the most influential figures in the history of the Catholic Church. Best known for her spiritual writings and her pivotal role in convincing Pope Gregory XI to return the papacy from Avignon to Rome. Catherine was canonized in 1461, leaving an indelible mark on Siena's historical and spiritual landscape, eventually becoming, alongside Saint Francis, one of the two patron saints of Italy.

Maybe it was the spremuta, or maybe the orzo, perhaps the atmosphere of Bar 4 Cantoni,   Hmm! or the ghost of Caterina. Whatever it was, I stepped out feeling much better and full of gratitude for being here, now.

Arrivederci until next Saturday—always observing, always sharing, always sipping, always a tale from an Italian coffee bar.