Retreat, Reflect, Reconnect: My Monastery Experience

Sanctuary of La Verna (AR)

During my career, I traveled across Canada from coast to coast, staying in every Fairmont hotel in the country. Now that I’m retired and have had my fill of luxury hotels, I find great joy in escaping a world filled with constant noise, digital distractions, and the relentless hum of daily life.

And so, every once in a while, I retreat to places that are the complete opposite of lavish hotels: monasteries and convents. Here, tranquility is not merely the absence of sound but the presence of peace.

This week, I’ll share with you my three-day retreat to a place surrounded by mountains and forests.

The Sanctuary of La Verna is a place of deep spiritual significance and tranquility, known as the site where St. Francis of Assisi is said to have received the stigmata in 1224. This sacred retreat has long been a destination for meditation and prayer. It’s astonishing how almost 1,000 years ago, they built places like this at 1,200 meters altitude, far from the rest of the world, when back then, the world was very sparsely populated. Why? Maybe I’ll find out!

What I love most about La Verna is its breathtaking location, nestled within forests atop Mount Penna of the Apennine Mountains, just about two hours from my home. The sanctuary complex features ancient chapels, a monastery, and about 100 guest rooms for pilgrims and visitors. Maintained by the Franciscan Order, it’s a haven for both spiritual seekers and nature lovers.

La Verna

I arrived just before noon last Sunday. After a brief check-in, I went to the second floor, to room 30. Simple but functional. No Wi-Fi, no TV, just a desk, a single bed, a wardrobe, and a recently renovated bathroom.

Room 30 on second floor

Lunch was at 12:30, so I had time for a quick tour. The long corridors and maze-like hallways of the 800-year-old structure were well kept. You almost need a map to get around. I followed the sound of a church organ and found myself in the basilica, packed with visitors. This being Easter period, I was not surprised to see the church so full.

Sunday mass in the Basilica

Long corridors and hallways everywhere

I opened a door with a sign that said “TV ROOM” and this is what I found

So, since you've read this far, let me tell you what brings me here.

No, I’m not thinking of becoming a monk, and even if I wanted too I don’t think I qualify. First and foremost, I like a change of scenery, something more authentic, a place unlike the one we navigate most days. But beyond that, I come here seeking and appreciating the following:

The Spiritual Side

Since I was young, I’ve felt drawn to monastic surroundings, the slow pace, the gardens, the courtyards, the peaceful feeling. I’ve always been close to the church, though I’m not much of a practitioner. As a critical thinker with a touch of skepticism, I ask myself too many questions. But I can see and feel the spiritual side of it. I feel in complete harmony when surrounded by such calmness. This helps me attain a level of serenity that I can’t find elsewhere. This is a time to appreciate and be grateful for what I have and what is offered to us.

I did enjoy some of their daily rituals, such as the Lodi Mattutine at 7:30 in the morning and the Vespri at 7:00 p.m. Both of these feature Gregorian chants, which I happen to enjoy. I also took part in a procession from the basilica to the Chapel of the Stigmata, where Saint Francis received the wounds of Christ in 1224. This 800-year-old ritual has never missed a single day.

Silence and Meditation

“I don’t want to learn to be silent; I want to savour the silence from which every true word is born.” Chandra Livia Candiani.

No words or music can surpass the profound beauty found in nature’s silence. When I hike through deserted mountains or sit by a tranquil lake, there is something deeply absorbing about the stillness, a rare, almost sacred quiet that soothes the soul.

I’ve learned to meditate and have practiced it in the past, but here, it feels different. I don’t stand still or try to clear my mind. Instead, I absorb everything around me with full awareness, the vastness of the mountains, foggy light filtering through bare branches, a chirping bird, the shape of moss around a tree trunk, the distant toll of church bells. These moments bring me stillness and appreciation. I don’t try to change anything. I just listen and take in the splendor around me. This makes it much easier for me to meditate than sitting in a closed environment, I don’t have that capability.

Early morning walk

Hiking Paradise

Several hiking trails depart from the Sanctuary. After breakfast, I would choose one that took me around the mountains. Although they were under a two-hour hike, their steepness made them quite a workout. The rock formations, covered in moss and surrounded by crocuses, are probably signs of past seismic activity, given that the Apennines are a seismically active region. The mix of beeches and tall silver firs created a mosaic of colors and scents. Clusters of tiny purple flowers (Crocus vernus) among dead leaves announced spring.

Crocus vernus

Rock detachments caused by earthquakes

The morning hikes were chilly, with temperatures falling into the low teens, and the fog among the naked trees gave it an eerie feel. In the afternoon, as the sky cleared, I could see as far as my eyes could reach over hilltops and valleys with scattered villages here and there.

Hiking trail leading to summit of Mt Penna

Abete bianco, tallest silver fir in Italy standing over 50 meters tall

Chapel at very top of Mt Penna

A very old icehouse called “Ghiacciaia”

Entry of icehouse

Plenty of Time to Read and Write

One of my favorite pastimes is reading and writing, and this environment is ideal for both. After a short nap in the afternoon, I would spend a few hours writing. I can imagine how inviting this place must be for reading in the cool breeze under the shade of trees on hot summer days. But for now, with the lower temperatures, I did my reading from one of the many indoor halls.

As I believe that everything happens for a reason, or most of the time, the day before I left, Emi’s sister, Francesca, introduced me to a book called Il silenzio è cosa viva by Livia Candiani, about the transformative power of silence and meditation. It encourages readers to approach life with mindfulness, compassion, and openness to the unknown. So, I downloaded the audio version, and it made for great bedtime listening.

Reflections on My Stay

As I wrapped up my short stay, I reflected on what I didn’t accomplish that I had intended to. I had planned zero tolerance for electronic devices, except for taking photos on my phone and making notes for my newsletter. Well, that didn’t quite happen, but I did cut down significantly, especially on Trump news, which had been infesting my life.

You can have a silent retreat here, but not a fasting one. Don’t expect to lose weight, Italian monasteries serve meals as good as any trattoria. Lunch always started with a primo of pasta or soup, followed by dishes like rabbit with artichokes alla Romana, risotto, polenta with boar meat, or carpaccio with shaved Parmigiano. Mannaggia me! (Damn me!) I have very little willpower when it comes to good food. And thank God for the hikes.

And finally, I think three days is the perfect length to experience this type of retreat, enough to appreciate everything but not so long that I start to miss home. After all, a chatterbox can only stay quiet for so long before risking serious health complications.

And why did they build them in such secluded places? I suppose it was to avoid distractions and temptations, allowing them to focus entirely on prayer and devotion. There is undoubtedly a deeper spiritual connection throughout these majestic mountains. I imagine they also felt safer here. They were self-sufficient, with monks growing their own food and living off the land. And I'll tell you something else, having visited many cemeteries of monasteries and convents, I noticed that their average lifespan was significantly higher than ours. Does that surprise you?"

Just before retreating to my room on that final night, an inexplicable force pulled me toward the far side of the monastery. The wind howled. As I climbed the little hill, I was met with a vision that would be etched in my memory for a while.

You have questions or want to know more? Drop me a line, I’ll be glad to tell you more.

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