💎 The Silent Beauty of Comacchio

Hidden Gem Series

Sep 21, 2024

Through my travels, I often stumble upon places that leave me completely in awe. These hidden destinations may not make the top travel lists, but they are true gems discovered during my personal journeys.

In my weekly newsletters, look for the 💎 symbol beside the title—it’s the sign of a new discovery. It’s a Hidden Gem.

The Untold Beauty of Comacchio’s Canals

On my way back from Venice I took a longer, scenic route, exploring the Po Delta, the Adriatic coast, and the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi. Intrigued by a small town called Comacchio with its lagoons and eel fishing history, I planned an overnight stop there. Arriving just as the sun set, I headed to the historic center, eager to explore and find a spot for dinner. As I walked along Via Agatopisto Cromaziano, I realized I’d stumbled upon something truly special. The canal winding through the heart of the town, the absence of noise—it all took me by surprise. I’m not sure if it was the stillness of the night, the reflections of the lights on the canals, or just the overall peacefulness, but I felt an immediate connection to this place—one of those "I could move here" moments.

Via Agatopisto Cromaziano winding gently along the canals, captures the essence of history and charm

La Manifattura dei Marinati (Fully functional anchored eel fishing boat)

Several cozy restaurants lined the street, with terraces overlooking the water. I was more curious to explore than to rush into a meal, so I strolled along the main street, admiring the homes directly facing the canal. Everything was closed except for the restaurants and one bar near the Trepponti Bridge, where a group of people chatted while sipping on drinks.

Walking through Comacchio at night felt like stepping into a cinematic dreamscape. The cobblestone streets, empty and silent, echo my footsteps and I felt I was waking up people in their homes. There was an eerie calm, as though the whole place was waiting for something to happen.

The receptionist at the hotel mentioned that last winter, a movie was filmed here. They needed fog for the scenes, and Comacchio delivered it, ‘naturally and free of charge.’ She said it with so much enthusiasm that I was not sure whether to laugh or not.

Bar Ragno

I started the following day at Bar Ragno, tucked beneath La Loggia del Grano, a historic grain hall from the 1600s. The atmosphere was lively yet peaceful, with locals exchanging stories over their morning coffees and pastries. One rule I follow religiously in Italy: never, ever order a cappuccino after 10:00 a.m. If you do, the waiter might give you a disapproving frown or even ask, “Are you sure this is what you want?” My cappuccino arrived, and a sip gave me an instant smile. Some bars (although rare) use un-refrigerated milk, reminding me of the ones they serve poolside in Cuba, this was definitely not the case. The strong espresso aroma blended seamlessly with the right amount of milk. It was perfect.

Loggia del Grano and Torre dell’Orologio. Biking is the preferred way of getting around in Comacchio

While I savored my coffee, I listened to a local man in a bright red T-shirt passionately discussing Jannik Sinner’s quarter-final victory at the U.S. Open. “Te lo dico! Guarda bene che vinceremo quest’anno.” ("I’m telling you, we’re going to win it all this year.") Their conversation brought me back to the real world for a moment.

The Lagoon

After breakfast, I took a boat tour through the Comacchio lagoons. If I had to describe the scene, I’d say it felt as though time had stood still. The simple, weathered fishing houses with their large nets, called “trabocchi,” the rows of tall grasses swaying in the wind, and the occasional flock of flamingos all contributed to the beauty of the place. The cloudy skies and light breeze added to the atmosphere, making the moment feel even more special.

Containers “lavorieri” to hold and keep eels alive in water

Trabocchi with large fishing nets called “bilance” or “trabocchetti”, which are lowered in the sea to catch fish

I wrapped up the morning with a lunch featuring Comacchio’s signature dish—eel. To be honest, eel isn’t exactly my favorite, but when in Comacchio, I had to give it a try. Served with fried polenta, it was an experience I’m glad to have had, though I probably won’t be ordering it again anytime soon. Something about the texture reminded me of snakes, but it was fascinating to learn about the long history behind this local delicacy. The bread was served in an old large can of “Anguilla Marinata” (marinated eel).

There’s something special about Comacchio—a kind of quiet magic that’s hard to put into words. It’s not just the beauty of its canals, or the unique local flavors, but the feeling of having discovered a secret, a place where you can slow down and savor life’s simple pleasures.

So, if you ever find yourself with time to spare, consider taking the scenic routes. You just might stumble upon hidden gems like Comacchio—places that linger in your heart long after you’ve left, beckoning you to return.

Sipping Italy with Tino

Discussion about this post